Glycolic acid is a common ingredient in skincare (also known as hydroxyacetic acid). It’s usually made in labs or derived from natural sources like sugarcane and pineapple. This powerful compound helps treat dullness, fine lines, and uneven texture, but how does it actually work?
How Does Glycolic Acid Work?
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), a group of chemical exfoliants that work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells. Unlike physical scrubs that rely on friction, AHAs promote a gentler and more controlled form of exfoliation. Glycolic acid, in particular, has the smallest molecular size of any AHA, allowing it to penetrate the skin more deeply and act more effectively (Kaur & Agrawal, 2013).
In addition to exfoliating, glycolic acid also stimulates collagen production–the protein responsible for keeping skin firm, smooth, and resilient. This dual action makes it especially useful for addressing multiple skin concerns, including fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and acne scarring (Limtrakul et al., 2018; Mayo Clinic, 2024). Clinical research also supports glycolic acid’s role in managing acne by helping to prevent clogged pores and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in patients with darker skin tones (JCAD, 2020).
Glycolic Acid Benefits for Skin
Glycolic acid provides several clinically supported benefits for the skin, thanks to its exfoliating and collagen-boosting properties (Kaur & Agrawal, 2013):
- Smoother skin texture through increased cell turnover
- Reduction in fine lines and wrinkles with continued use
- Improved skin tone and brightness
- Treatment and prevention of acne by clearing clogged pores
- Fading of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne scars
- Prevention of ingrown hairs by keeping pores clear
- Enhanced hydration by improving the skin’s ability to retain moisture
Some products claim additional effects, but ongoing studies are still exploring glycolic acid’s full range of benefits. According to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at Mount Sinai Hospital, while glycolic acid is well known for its exfoliating properties, “we’re still learning about its long-term effects on skin health, especially when it comes to treating acne scars and pigmentation.”
Side Effects of Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is generally safe for most skin types, but there are a few precautions to keep in mind. Because chemical exfoliants increase sun sensitivity, daily sunscreen use is essential. Without proper protection, sun exposure can worsen pigmentation or delay healing—especially when treating scars. A high-protection, photostable formula like ISDIN Eryfotona Actinica SPF 50+ is an excellent option, offering broad-spectrum coverage without clogging pores.
Before incorporating glycolic acid into your regular routine, perform a patch test. Apply a small amount to a discrete area of skin and monitor for any irritation, redness, or itching over the next 24 hours.
Finally, consult a dermatologist if you’re using topical retinoids, isotretinoin (Accutane), or other strong exfoliants. Combining active ingredients without guidance can increase the risk of irritation or damage to the skin barrier. For a deeper look at which products don’t pair well together, see this guide on what not to mix in your skincare routine.
Incorporating Glycolic Acid Into Your Routine
Glycolic acid is widely available in toners, cleansers, masks, and moisturizers, making it easy to build into almost any skincare routine. Here’s how to get started – and a few product picks that can help:
1. Start with a Toner
Toning solutions are a common entry point for glycolic acid. Apply a small amount to clean, dry skin on the face and upper neck, ideally in the evening. The Glycolic Acid Toner is a solid choice, combining glycolic acid with salicylic acid to exfoliate and reduce breakouts.
2. Try a Cleanser for Gentle Daily Exfoliation
If a toner feels too strong or you want a gentler approach, opt for a glycolic acid cleanser like the Dermalogica Daily Glycolic Cleanser. It’s formulated for everyday use and helps brighten skin while removing impurities.
3. Add in a Weekly Mask
For a more intensive exfoliation once or twice a week, a glycolic acid mask like the Andalou Naturals Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask delivers noticeable glow and smoother texture with natural enzymes and brightening fruit stem cells.
4. Don’t Forget to Moisturize
After applying glycolic acid in any form, always follow up with a gentle, hydrating moisturizer to restore balance. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream is a barrier-repairing option that locks in moisture without clogging pores.
5. Understand pH Levels
When choosing a glycolic acid product, concentration isn’t the only thing that matters—the pH level plays a major role in how the product works on your skin.
- Lower pH (around 3–4): More free acid is available, which makes the product stronger and more effective at exfoliation and collagen stimulation.
- Higher pH (above 4.5): The glycolic acid is gentler but less active, making it better suited for sensitive skin or beginners. Most over-the-counter products use higher pH to minimize irritation, but if you’re looking for faster results—like fading dark spots or treating deeper wrinkles—a lower-pH product under a dermatologist’s supervision might be more effective.
Keep in mind that most skincare brands don’t list pH on the label. Try to look for brands that disclose pH or check reviews that measure it independently.
Common Product Formats and How to Use Them
There’s no one-size-fits-all with glycolic acid. Different formats offer different benefits depending on how you use them. Here’s a quick guide to help you choose what works best for your skin:
Making Your Way to the Perfect Skincare Routine
Glycolic acid is just one of many powerhouse ingredients that can elevate your skincare game (to see how glycolic acid compares to other facial acids, see this guide from Cleveland Clinic). But like any effective product, it works best when used thoughtfully and consistently. Here are a few things to keep in mind as you build your routine:
- Be consistent, but patient. Glycolic acid takes time to show visible results–think weeks, not days.
- Start slow. Especially if you have sensitive skin, ease in with a gentler formulation or use it less frequently at first.
- Watch your skin’s response. If you notice persistent irritation or no changes after a few weeks, consult a licensed dermatologist.
- Keep sunscreen in your daily lineup. AHAs like glycolic acid increase sun sensitivity, so sun protection is an absolute must.
Remember, the key to effective skincare isn’t just using great products–it’s knowing how and when to use them. If you’re still figuring out what works for your skin, check out our guide on how to tell if a skincare product is working for tips on tracking progress without second-guessing yourself.
My Skincare Routine is your go-to resource for evidence-based advice, ingredient guides, and product picks that actually make sense. Whether you’re just starting out or fine-tuning your regimen, we’re here to help you feel confident in your skin.